The "Chuka soba" that captivates people who eat them is the legacy of Echizen City, a city known by those in the know
Echizen City's gourmet food is nationally known for its Echizen grated buckwheat noodles, but in fact, "Chuka soba a.k.a Chinese Style Ramen" is also one of the city's lesser-known specialties.
It is a little different from what is served in so-called Chinese restaurants or ramen stores. The key point is that the menu is labeled "Chuka soba" in buckwheat noodle shops and popular restaurants.
There are nearly 20 restaurants around JR Takefu Station that serve "Chuka soba" also known as "Takefu Ekimae Chuka soba".
The light, clear soup is a great way to finish off a night of drinking.
In Echizen City, a group of volunteers called "Nukumori Ippai Chuka Men's" has been formed, and the event is secretly gaining momentum.
What is it about "Chuka soba" that attracts so many people?
Chuka soba was a pleasure to eat out
The noodle dish, which has its roots in "Chuka soba". came to Japan from China around the end of the Meiji period (1868-1912). At that time, it was called "Nankin-soba" or "shina-soba", but in Japan, which originally had a soba and udon culture, the taste quickly spread to the rest of the country, and by the Taisho era (1912-1926), it had spread nationwide as "Chuka soba".
One such restaurant is "Udonbou Yamamuro",located about 5 minutes by car from JR Takefu Station.
Founded in 1912, it has been satisfying the stomachs of many people for 100 years. In addition to Echizen oroshi soba, udon noodles, and rice bowls, "Chuka soba" has been on the menu for a long time.
▲The red goodwill is eye-catching.
"In the old days, there weren't many soba stores that called themselves 'buckwheat noodle shops'. You can always get soba if you go to the fields around here. Every household ate it frequently enough to stockpile it as preserves and emergency rations, so it wasn't something you would go out of your way to eat. Udon noodles and Chuka soba were much rarer."
The owner, Tetsuo Sasaki, says so. He is the third generation, following in the footsteps of his grandfather.
▲Mr. Sasaki. Beautiful behavior from having been in the traditional arts until the age of 60.
There were no supermarkets or convenience stores like today. There were few places that sold fresh noodles other than soba noodles, and it was time-consuming to go to the trouble of making noodles at home. Therefore, Chuka soba was a special menu that could only be eaten at restaurants.
"In the old days, this area was lined with government offices like Kasumigaseki in Tokyo, and there were many delivery services. They used to write their specialties on the signboard to promote the restaurant. That's why I remember our restaurant had a big sign that said “Chuka soba Noodles."
▲A photo of "Yamamuro" from more than 60 years ago now. A sign reading "Chuka soba Noodles" can be seen on a banner reading "Purveyor to Government Office."
In the 1950s, there was an instant noodle boom, from which the name "ramen" spread throughout the country. To this day, various types of ramen have been created, such as tonkotsu (pork bone) and miso (soybean paste), but why is "Chuka soba" the more popular type of ramen in Echizen City?
Soup that captivates those who eat it
The basic method of making ramen soup is to pour a broth made of pork belly and chicken bones into a "kaeshi" made of broth from roasted pork, soy sauce, mirin (sweet sake), etc. However, Echizen City's "Chuka soba" uses soba noodles broth instead of "kaeshi".
"The dashi broth made from katsuo (bonito) and kombu (kelp) is always prepared every day in the restaurants around here to make soba and udon. The soup is made from a soy-based dip for buckwheat noodles and chicken broth, so the foundation of the flavor is different from that of ramen noodles." he said.
The Chuka soba you are looking for are brought to you. The aroma that fills the nostrils the moment it is placed on the table stimulates the appetite.
The ingredients of Chuka soba noodles are green onion, pickled bamboo shoots, fish paste, and chashu pork. Many restaurants around here serve "Chuka soba" with traditional ham instead of chashu pork, but Mr. Sasaki spends a whole day preparing the chashu pork.
▲Yamamuro's "Chuka soba Noodles"
A nostalgic taste that you want to eat every day
One sip of the soup and you will be surprised at its elegant and clean taste, which is certainly different from ramen. As the noodles are dipped into the moderately thick noodles and eaten, the richness of the animal-based flavor is suddenly felt, further increasing the complexity and depth of the flavor.
And how tender this chashu pork is. It is surprisingly smooth, probably due to the fact that it is slowly simmered after the excess fat has been removed.
▲ "Chinese noodles take a lot more time and effort than you might think. But I can't stop as long as there are people who come to eat here. says Mr.Sasaki.
"Ramen may get boring if you eat it every day, but we don't get bored with this Chinese noodle every day. It's based on dashi (Japanese soup stock), just like miso soup, so you can drink it every day, and I think it has a nostalgic taste."
In fact, Yamamuro's "Chuka soba Noodles" has long been a favorite of many fans, with people coming from as far away as Shiga and Aichi every month without fail for the taste.
The familiar tasting broth soaked with the flavor of kelp and bonito will gently and tenderly fill your stomach at any time of the day. It is nostalgic even though you are eating it for the first time, and once you try it, you will want to eat it again, Echizen City's "Chuka soba" is a food legacy that we hope to preserve for many years to come. We hope you will visit various restaurants to find your favorite Chuka soba.
Text / Ai Ishihara
